Archaeology 360: Kilfenora Cathedral & Crosses, Co. Clare

1998: Rowan Atkinson and assorted clerics on east window of chancel

There are many fine and gorgeous archaeological and historic sites of all ages in the Burren, Co. Clare, but among my personal favourites is Kilfenora. Very little is known of St. Fachanan beyond the tradition that he founded the first church here in the 6^th century and that he is remembered as the first Bishop of Kilfenora. Whatever the truth in the tradition, no buildings survive from that early phase. In any event, Kilfenora wasn’t a particularly important religious centre until the mid-12^th century when it was upgraded to being a Diocese and much of the standing architecture belongs to the decades immediately after this increase in status. The western, nave, portion of this late-12^th to early 13^th century building is still used as a Church of Ireland place of worship, but the chancel is unroofed and boasts a finely carved window. The latter is decorated with several clerics, at least one of which bears more than a passing resemblance to Mr Bean. The chancel is also home to a beautiful triple sedelia - a stone seat to the side of an altar. The ‘Lady Chapel’/north Transept contains several high crosses - both complete and partial - and was fitted with a glass roof at the turn of the century to protect the crosses while allowing the most light and the feeling of space. One of these crosses is known as the ‘Doorty’ Cross and dates to the 12^th century. You can read all about the church and its crosses here [Wikipedia | Clare Co. Library].

1998: Fragment of High Cross in chancel before being moved to north transept

I wanted to structure this 3D 360-degree tour like a mini pilgrimage, so it starts in the field to the west of the site, to examine the High Cross there. This example has a crucifixion scene on its east face along with a variety of interlaced ornament (Part I & Part II). From there the visitor moves to first to the western gate of the cemetery (Part III) and then on to the carved doorway that leads to the current Church of Ireland place of worship (Part IV), before quickly taking a look into the ground floor portion of the belfry, with its two effigies of long deceased bishops (Part V). From there we move along the outside of the south wall to the junction of the C of I church (the original nave) and the unroofed chancel (Part VI). Here you can see the narrow, pointed 15^th century windows and door that were inserted into the earlier wall. Next, we turn the corner to look at the outside face of the three-light east window (Part VII) before moving on to compare the round-headed windows on the exterior wall of the north transept/‘Lady Chapel’ (Part VIII). From here we double back to a place in the graveyard, just to the north of the nave, near the entrance to the north transept (Part IX). Now, through the power of cinema, I will whisk you, my pilgrim, through the north transept and directly into the original late-12^th to early 13^th century chancel. First, we pause a moment at the western end of the chancel, by the exterior wall of the modern church (Part X). Then we move on to the eastern end of the chancel where we can look more closely at that beautiful three-light east window and the tracery of the triple sedilia (Part XI).  Finally, we are ready to view the crosses preserved in the north transept, first from a position near the door (Part XII); then (moving clockwise) to near the cross fragment in the north-west corner of the transept (Part XIII); and into the north-east corner (Part XIV); before moving to the south-east corner to examine the surviving High Cross  there (Part XV), all the while with the magnificent ‘Doorty’ High Cross at the centre of the space.

1998: Bishop's effigy before being moved to bell tower

I’ve created a YouTube playlist so the videos will play in sequence [here], or you can jump between the various parts on the list below:

Part I – Western Cross, West Face (0:55)

Part II – Western Cross, East Face (0:50)

Part III – Western gate to the cemetery (0:40)

Part IV – Carved Doorway to Belltower & modern C of I church (0:46)

Part V – Ground floor of the belfry with two effigies of bishops (0:43)

Part VI – Exterior of south wall at junction between nave and chancel (0:45)

Part VII – Exterior of east wall, beside the three-light east window (0:59)

Part VIII – Exterior wall of north transept/‘Lady Chapel’ (0:31)

Part IX – Exterior corner between the north transept and the nave (0:36)

Part X – Western end of chancel (0:41)

Part XI – Eastern end of chancel, with sedilia (1:08)

Part XII – Crosses in the north transept, near the door (0:43)

Part XIII – NW corner of the north transept (0:59)

Part XIV – NE corner of the north transept (0:40)

Part XV – SE corner of the north transept (0:52)

1998: Sedelia in chancel

You can view this 360-degree video on an ordinary browser or on the dedicated YouTube app for your smartphone. However, for best results we recommend the more immersive experience that comes with an Oculus/Google Cardboard headset. Please feel free to Like and Share the video and Subscribe to the Archaeology 360 channel. If you’re feeling peculiarly generous and wish to help purchase snacks to sustain the Chapples Minor in the field, please drop something in the Tip Jar on the top right of this page.