European Heritage Open Days 2013 | An East Belfast Experience | Part II
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In Part I of this post
I set out how I, in the face of overwhelming non enthusiasm from my children,
went out and enjoyed two beautiful buildings (Netherleigh House & The Strand Arts Centre [Website | Facebook]) as
part of European Heritage Open Days 2013. That day (Saturday 14th September) had been
warm and sunny – a last Hurrah for the late summer. The Sunday was not the same
at all. It was wet, windy, overcast, and pretty miserable. My children –
wonderful though they are – were putting up some stiff resistance to the idea
of going out and about to visit some dreary old buildings. My lovely, patient,
and hard-working wife had to go and toil for a couple of hours that morning,
leaving me in charge of the Chapples Minors. As she left she offered an opinion that I
might – despite my best efforts – find it difficult to get them out of the
house on such a miserable day. I, however, had other plans! I promised my kids
bacon sandwiches if they’d come and sit with me while we decided where to go
and what to see. I explained that we were
going out and we were going to see
some buildings … the only difference was that in one scenario they’d be dragged
kicking and screaming and they’d have no choice in where we went, but in the
other version of reality they’d have an input into what we’d see … and a bacon
sandwich. After a brief, brotherly head-to-head, my offer was accepted and I
went about producing sandwiches and finding the online brochure. After all that
bargaining and deliberation it turned out that there were only two buildings in
East Belfast open for EHOD 2013 … but at least there was a feeling that we’d
gotten to the decision together. There was consensus, but most of all there was
bacon!
Panoramic view of the front façade of Campbell College |
First on our list of
places to see was Campbell College. If you went to a boarding school you
probably have no time for such places as Campbell. On the other hand, I went to
Athenry Vocational School and dreamed of being transported to a place like this
… or at least the version of that made its way into my boyhood novels that
probably included a lot more adventure, daring, ginger beer, and Nazis
appearing from U-boats off the coast than might otherwise be expected. All that
said, there’s still part of me that’s fascinated by these places … and
subconsciously probably a bit relieved that I didn’t actually go there! In 1890
the trustees of Henry James Campbell’s estate purchased the Belmont Estate from
Sir Thomas McClure. Campbell had made his fortune through the linen trade
(including Mossley Mills), and on his death in 1889, left the bulk of his
estate to fund either a school or a hospital to bear his name. The school was
designed in the Tudor Revival style by local architect William Henry Lynn (and
probable architect of the nearby Netherleigh House). Lynn and James Adam
McNeill (joint headmaster 1890-96, headmaster 1896-1907) visited a number of
schools in the UK and on the Continent to collect the most modern thinking then current in education and to provide ‘a liberal curriculum on sound educational
lines’. In the Entrance hall the chandelier and clock were brought from Lorne, the Craigavad home of Henry James
Campbell. The chandelier was originally gas, but was converted to electricity
in 1923. Unfortunately, the original clock was stolen but its replacement is
known as the ‘Albert Clock’ in memory of long-serving porter Albert Maxwell,BEM.
Oak-panelled entrance hall with chandelier from Henry James Campbell’s home at Craigavad and the ‘Albert Clock’ |
Some 594 Campbellians
served during World War One. Of these 126 were killed, including thirteen on
the first day of the Battle of the Somme in 1916. The war memorial in the
Central Hall was inaugurated in 1923 and features sculptures by esteemed local
artist, Rosamund Praeger (sister to naturalist and writer Robert Lloyd Praeger).
The same memorial includes a somewhat unexpected name: C S Lewis. Like many, I
would associate Lewis with the Narnia tales and a somewhat tempestuous
relationship with J R R Tolkien. I hadn’t realised that Lewis had attended
Campbell for all of two months before being sent to Malvern (Cherbourg School).
In 1917 he was commissioned into the Third Battalion of the Somerset LightInfantry and experienced trench warfare first hand in the Somme. In April 1918
he was wounded as a result of what is now termed ‘friendly fire’ when a British
shell fell short of its target. He survived and, although only very briefly a
Campbellian, was accorded commemoration on the memorial. There can’t be a gas
lamp post in east Belfast that hasn’t been claimed as the inspiration for the
one that makes an appearance in The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe. The one
surviving example on the Grounds at Campbell is no exception, however tenuous
the link.
Over 1000 Campbellians
served during WWII, claiming the lives of 102 of them. The monument to the
victims of that conflict is much more sedate and would almost escape casual
notice amidst the wood panelling. Outside the building, our stalwart tour guide
introduced us to two items he described as ‘marmite’ features of the school –
you either love them or hate them. The first of these is the brace of boar that
guard the entrance. These are identical copies of the well-known Il Porcellino sculpture (occasionally
termed ‘the Florentine boar’). The original – now lost – was an Hellenistic
statue found in Rome and, in the mid-16th century, transported to Florence on
the instruction of the Medici family. During the following century the statue
was copied in marble and it is this version that is today in the Uffizi in
Florence. Sometime before 1634, this copy served as the inspiration for PietroTacca’s fountain. I’ve loved this sculpture since I first saw the Uffizi copy
many years ago. The Campbell examples were presented by one of the board of
governors because the Campbell crest is a boar. It’s undeniably kitsch, but
there is something charming about it all the same. The second ‘marmite’ item on
the agenda was the levitating saint sculpture that hangs on the side of the
extended gable of the Central Hall. I’m not against all religious-inspired art per se, but this figure with a hollowed
out chest cavity and boys in the folds of his garment (depicting the sporting
and academic prowess of the establishment) is just creepy.
After some warming
coffee and biscuits, we were on our way again. The only other EHOD building
open in east Belfast on that Sunday was Stormont Castle. The previous year I
had gotten to see Parliament Buildings on the Stormont estate, but didn’t make
it as far as the castle. We parked down by the rather excellent Mo Mowlam Children’s Park – if you’re about this area and have small children, it’s a
great place to go – there’s even a van that sells good coffee to the tired
parent. As we wandered up the hill we spotted sets of metal plates bolted into
concrete slabs. These are the remains of the anchors for barrage balloons, used
to protect Parliament Buildings from attack during WWII.
Today Stormont Castle
is used as the chief meeting place of the Northern Ireland Executive. The
original structure was built by the Cleland family in 1830 on what was then
known as ‘Storm Mount’. Soon after completion it was described as a ‘large,
plain house with very little planting about it’. It was redesigned and extended
in 1858, in the Scottish Baronial style, by local architect Thomas Turner. At
this time it was also granted a name upgrade to ‘Stormont Castle’. It’s unclear
as to how much of the original 1830s house still exists, trapped within the
later structure. Certainly, the later additions included the entrance tower and
waiting room, a ballroom, drawing room, several reception rooms, 14 bedrooms,
servants’ quarters, and a variety of offices. The terraced garden and the
lean-to glasshouse backed with bothies are also of this date. The Cleland
family left the residence in 1893 and, for a time, the Castle was rented out.
Initial attempts to sell the property failed, eventually being purchased in 1921
by the newly-formed Northern Ireland Government. The estate included the Castle
on 235 acres, 100 of which were woodland, and was purchased for £21,000. The
initial intention was to demolish the Castle, but this was rejected when the
scale of local opposition became apparent. From 1933 until 1940 the Castle was
used as the official residence of Sir James Craig, the first Prime Minister of
Northern Ireland. It also served as the location of the Cabinet Room of the
Government of Northern Ireland from 1921 to 1972. Prior to the Good Friday Agreement and subsequent devolution, it was used as the Belfast headquarters of
the Secretary of State for Northern Ireland, Northern Ireland Office Ministers
and supporting officials. As it still functions as a government building, in particular
as the offices and meeting rooms for the First Minister and Deputy First Minister, we were asked not to take photographs. I, reluctantly, complied and
am unable to show you any of the beautifully appointed rooms inside this fine
building. Instead, I can only suggest that for European Heritage Open Days 2014
you come to east Belfast and see this and some of the other fine sights for
yourself!
< Part I
Notes:
To repeat myself from
Part I: I am indebted to all the people who worked so hard to make European
Heritage Open Days 2013 a success in Northern Ireland, especially the tour
guides who took such time and effort explaining their buildings to the public.
I am also indebted to those who provided photocopied guides to the various
buildings. I have shamelessly reproduced much of their knowledge and research
here, though I make no claims to ownership of the material – without it this
post would have been a much poorer piece! Thank you all.
There is a persistent,
if unverifiable, rumour that some of the more sycophantic, aspirational
families of east Belfast name their children after the school above, in
hopes of being looked upon favourably by the board of governors. While the practice is, quite justifiably, reviled by all sensible people, we must look more with pity than anger on these poor, misguided individuals. I would hasten to add that I do not personally believe this scurrilous rumour, but merely record its existence.
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