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| West gable and graveyard |
There’s no denying that
the central precinct of Glendalough is pretty packed with tourists during the
summer season. While the round tower, St Kevin’s church, the graveyard, and all
that are lovely and interesting, it’s just not possible to take a photograph
without other people getting in the shot (and you becoming part of someone
else’s holiday snaps too!). With buses disgorging a seemingly endless stream
of sightseers, the site does take on something of the feel of a theme park.
While I’m fully aware that these sites would have bustled with activity in
their heydays, I do prefer my medieval ruins to be still and peaceful … and
that quietude is just not to be found there. Or so I thought. In my wanderings,
I bumped into a couple of student archaeologists working on a small trench near
the gateway. They directed me up the road and into a field where the main UCD
Archaeology Department excavation was taking place. I was lucky enough to bump
into the crew just at the end of lunchtime and was given a guided tour of the excavation.
You can download and read detailed accounts of some of their excavations [here]. At the
end of a very enjoyable spell learning about the newly discovered archaeology
of Glendalough & renewing some old acquaintances, I happened to ask if it
was possible to get to the church I could see poking out thorough bushes and
trees in the next field. I fully expected to be told that it was off limits and
couldn’t be reached. I was instead pleasantly surprised to find that it was
merely a case of negotiating a couple of gates under the shade of the trees and
suddenly I was standing in the sunlight and soaking up the beauty of the ruin
known as St Mary’s Church or Lady Chapel.
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| Lady Chapel as seen from near 'Kevin's Kitchen' |
The nave appears to be
of 10th or 11th century date and the chancel is a later addition. The outside
of the east window has a Romanesque moulding. For my money, though, the gem of
this site is the cross with circular-terminals, carved on the underside of the door
lintel. Well ... that may be the archaeological gem of this place, but the
really amazing thing about the site is that it was so quiet and peaceful. It’s
just 500ft (about 140m) from St Kevin’s Church/’Kitchen’. Over there it was all
hustle and bustle, but here – just a field away – I could hear the birdsong and
the wind gently rustle the leaves.
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| Approaching across the field |
I’m in two minds about whether
I should be promoting this site for its peace and solitude, thereby potentially
destroying the very thing that makes it special. However it is – in every sense
– off the beaten track and I think I’m safe enough. The busloads of tourists
hitting the site for their scheduled 30 minute slot, to take a few photos and
buy a souvenir or two will never have the time, inclination, or footwear, to
make it this far. It will, I believe, remain the preserve of the lucky few to
come here and enjoy the tranquility before heading out again, refreshed, into
the tumult.
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| East window with Romanesque moulding |
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| West Gable |
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| Through the cross-decorated doorway & on to the lakes beyond |
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| Cross inscribed on the underside of the door lintel |
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| View into the later chancel with the Round Tower in the background |
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| The west doorway |
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| The peace and quiet of the graveyard |
Notes:
Much of the detail about the individual sites has been rather shamelessly taken from some excellent sites & I urge you to go and explore them too:
To view the 3D Images you’ll need a pair of red/blue glasses. These can be purchased relatively cheaply from Amazon [here].
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